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Auction archive: Lot number 431

A RARE ART DECO CORAL, CARVED EMERALD, DIAMOND AND BLACK ONYX BROOCH, BY CARTIER

Auction 23.10.1996
23 Oct 1996 - 24 Oct 1996
Estimate
US$60,000 - US$80,000
Price realised:
US$96,000
Auction archive: Lot number 431

A RARE ART DECO CORAL, CARVED EMERALD, DIAMOND AND BLACK ONYX BROOCH, BY CARTIER

Auction 23.10.1996
23 Oct 1996 - 24 Oct 1996
Estimate
US$60,000 - US$80,000
Price realised:
US$96,000
Beschreibung:

A RARE ART DECO CORAL, CARVED EMERALD, DIAMOND AND BLACK ONYX BROOCH, BY CARTIER Designed as a sculpted coral, black enamel and single-cut diamond open circle, each side enhanced by a carved cabochon emerald and pavé-set diamond chevron motif, with cabochon and buff-top-cut black onyx, emerald and coral accents, mounted in platinum and 18K gold with French hallmarks (two black onyx missing) in a leather case, circa 1920 Signed by Cartier, Nos. 6418, 0520 The circle and the ellipse, taken from earlier wreath forms, were favorite Cartier Art Deco shapes. They were often modified with stylized lateral palmette motifs that lengthened the form to appeal to the new taste for larger and bolder jewelry. This type of clip brooch was designed to accessorize the fashionable cloche that was popular during the 1920s. The use of coral, diamonds, onyx and emeralds reflects the period's stylistic preference for contrasting colors and materials. The first decade of the twentieth century witnessed an explosion of color emanating from two sources; the revolutionary art movement, known as the Fauves , epitomized by the early work of Henri Matisse and the brilliantly colored stage sets of the Ballet Russes which first appeared in Paris in 1909. Jewelers utilized a new palette where vivid primary colors replaced muted hues, and juxtaposed precious gemstones with hardstones for bold color and texture contrast. This brooch was purchased from Cartier around 1921 and remained with the same family until it was sold in Christie's London sale, June 20, 1990, lot 168. With its lateral motifs in the shape of chevrons on either side of the circle, it is similar in design to a drawing, caption no. 212, illustrated in Cartier Splendeurs de la Joaillerie , catalogue of an exhibition, Fondation de l'Hermitage, Lausanne, 1996.

Auction archive: Lot number 431
Auction:
Datum:
23 Oct 1996 - 24 Oct 1996
Auction house:
Christie's
New York, Park Avenue
Beschreibung:

A RARE ART DECO CORAL, CARVED EMERALD, DIAMOND AND BLACK ONYX BROOCH, BY CARTIER Designed as a sculpted coral, black enamel and single-cut diamond open circle, each side enhanced by a carved cabochon emerald and pavé-set diamond chevron motif, with cabochon and buff-top-cut black onyx, emerald and coral accents, mounted in platinum and 18K gold with French hallmarks (two black onyx missing) in a leather case, circa 1920 Signed by Cartier, Nos. 6418, 0520 The circle and the ellipse, taken from earlier wreath forms, were favorite Cartier Art Deco shapes. They were often modified with stylized lateral palmette motifs that lengthened the form to appeal to the new taste for larger and bolder jewelry. This type of clip brooch was designed to accessorize the fashionable cloche that was popular during the 1920s. The use of coral, diamonds, onyx and emeralds reflects the period's stylistic preference for contrasting colors and materials. The first decade of the twentieth century witnessed an explosion of color emanating from two sources; the revolutionary art movement, known as the Fauves , epitomized by the early work of Henri Matisse and the brilliantly colored stage sets of the Ballet Russes which first appeared in Paris in 1909. Jewelers utilized a new palette where vivid primary colors replaced muted hues, and juxtaposed precious gemstones with hardstones for bold color and texture contrast. This brooch was purchased from Cartier around 1921 and remained with the same family until it was sold in Christie's London sale, June 20, 1990, lot 168. With its lateral motifs in the shape of chevrons on either side of the circle, it is similar in design to a drawing, caption no. 212, illustrated in Cartier Splendeurs de la Joaillerie , catalogue of an exhibition, Fondation de l'Hermitage, Lausanne, 1996.

Auction archive: Lot number 431
Auction:
Datum:
23 Oct 1996 - 24 Oct 1996
Auction house:
Christie's
New York, Park Avenue
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