AN ELEGANT ART DECO DIAMOND AND ROCK CRYSTAL CLIP, SUZANNE BELPERRON Designed as twin rock crystal plaques, each set with an old European-cut diamond, joined by old European-cut diamond geometric motifs to a platinum cylinder, with rose-cut diamond terminals, mounted in platinum and 18K white gold, with French hallmarks, circa 1935 By Suzanne Belperron, with maker's mark for Groene et Darde Towards the end of the 1920s, jewelry became more sculptural and the all-white look of diamonds replaced the period's use of primary colors for contrast. The illustrated clip is a transitional piece, bridging the rectilinear style of the Art Deco period with the three-dimensional style of Art Moderne. The central elements of Suzanne Belperron's design are two identical, perfectly-cut, truncated pyramids of rock crystal. She obtains dramatic contrast by displaying one vertically with respect to the other while keeping the abutting basal edges touching. These two pieces appear to hang freely from a common cylindrical pin, giving the illusion of motion. Further contrast is provided by differentiating the design of the supporting diamond-set bands, creating an imaginative interplay of open and closed spaces. The frontal planes display square mounts, set with diamonds. Overall, instead of bright colors, the designer has achieved an icy, cool look through the combined use of white diamonds, rock crystal and platinum. This clip defies its purely utilitarian nature, approaching a piece of modernist sculpture.
AN ELEGANT ART DECO DIAMOND AND ROCK CRYSTAL CLIP, SUZANNE BELPERRON Designed as twin rock crystal plaques, each set with an old European-cut diamond, joined by old European-cut diamond geometric motifs to a platinum cylinder, with rose-cut diamond terminals, mounted in platinum and 18K white gold, with French hallmarks, circa 1935 By Suzanne Belperron, with maker's mark for Groene et Darde Towards the end of the 1920s, jewelry became more sculptural and the all-white look of diamonds replaced the period's use of primary colors for contrast. The illustrated clip is a transitional piece, bridging the rectilinear style of the Art Deco period with the three-dimensional style of Art Moderne. The central elements of Suzanne Belperron's design are two identical, perfectly-cut, truncated pyramids of rock crystal. She obtains dramatic contrast by displaying one vertically with respect to the other while keeping the abutting basal edges touching. These two pieces appear to hang freely from a common cylindrical pin, giving the illusion of motion. Further contrast is provided by differentiating the design of the supporting diamond-set bands, creating an imaginative interplay of open and closed spaces. The frontal planes display square mounts, set with diamonds. Overall, instead of bright colors, the designer has achieved an icy, cool look through the combined use of white diamonds, rock crystal and platinum. This clip defies its purely utilitarian nature, approaching a piece of modernist sculpture.
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