AN IMPORTANT ANTIQUE SAPPHIRE, EMERALD, RUBY, DIAMOND AND PEARL PEACOCK BROOCH, GUSTAVE BAUGRAND Designed as a calibré-cut sapphire, emerald and rose and old mine-cut diamond peacock, with cabochon ruby eyes, his fanned rose and old mine-cut diamond articulated tail feathers enhanced by heart-shaped emeralds and rubies, perched on a button-shaped pearl measuring approximately 11.80 x 9.10 mm, mounted in silver and gold (some small diamonds missing), circa 1865 Signed by Baugrand The Paris Exposition was, in many ways, a turning point for French jewelry with exhibits featuring the latest in technology and design. According to Henri Vever in "Le Bijouterie Française au XIX Siècle", it signified the flowering of a new age for jewelry with the emergence of a new way of setting diamonds such that designs became lighter in appearance. Designers also turned to new sources for inspiration. Motifs, which had heretofore been restricted to traditional designs such as revival styles and floral sprays, were influenced by the arts of the Far and Middle East. This peacock brooch is such an example, an image not seen previously in jewelry design. This brooch was made by the house of Baugrand. Gustave Baugrand, who took over Paul Marret's business in the 1850s, made jewelry for Napoleon III as well as for many in his court circle. He had a refined taste and constantly searched for new inspirations for this jewelry. Included in his exhibit at the 1867 Exposition in Paris was a brooch in the shape of a peacock, similar to the illustrated brooch, which is pictured on page 304 in the above cited book. Page 301 features a photograph of Baugrand's display at the Exposition, including a life-size Egyptian figure and other jewelry and objects with analogous motifs as well as jewelry based on Louis XVI styles, Renaissance-inspired enameled examples and, of course, the peacock in the center of the display, next to a clock. Page 336 of the same book shows a line drawing of a similar, but not identical, peacock suggesting that Baugrand realized more than one version of his successful design. The illustrated peacock brooch differs only in minute details from the one exhibited in the Exposition. The tail feathers are set with a multitude of diamonds (perhaps as many as 1,000); each accented by one ruby and one emerald. Each feather is jointed onto the body so that the peacock's tail moves slightly. The peacock stands astride a natural pearl with his head proudly held high. In its conception and overall use of gemstones, this brooch is a superb example of the finest jewelry from the late 1860s.
AN IMPORTANT ANTIQUE SAPPHIRE, EMERALD, RUBY, DIAMOND AND PEARL PEACOCK BROOCH, GUSTAVE BAUGRAND Designed as a calibré-cut sapphire, emerald and rose and old mine-cut diamond peacock, with cabochon ruby eyes, his fanned rose and old mine-cut diamond articulated tail feathers enhanced by heart-shaped emeralds and rubies, perched on a button-shaped pearl measuring approximately 11.80 x 9.10 mm, mounted in silver and gold (some small diamonds missing), circa 1865 Signed by Baugrand The Paris Exposition was, in many ways, a turning point for French jewelry with exhibits featuring the latest in technology and design. According to Henri Vever in "Le Bijouterie Française au XIX Siècle", it signified the flowering of a new age for jewelry with the emergence of a new way of setting diamonds such that designs became lighter in appearance. Designers also turned to new sources for inspiration. Motifs, which had heretofore been restricted to traditional designs such as revival styles and floral sprays, were influenced by the arts of the Far and Middle East. This peacock brooch is such an example, an image not seen previously in jewelry design. This brooch was made by the house of Baugrand. Gustave Baugrand, who took over Paul Marret's business in the 1850s, made jewelry for Napoleon III as well as for many in his court circle. He had a refined taste and constantly searched for new inspirations for this jewelry. Included in his exhibit at the 1867 Exposition in Paris was a brooch in the shape of a peacock, similar to the illustrated brooch, which is pictured on page 304 in the above cited book. Page 301 features a photograph of Baugrand's display at the Exposition, including a life-size Egyptian figure and other jewelry and objects with analogous motifs as well as jewelry based on Louis XVI styles, Renaissance-inspired enameled examples and, of course, the peacock in the center of the display, next to a clock. Page 336 of the same book shows a line drawing of a similar, but not identical, peacock suggesting that Baugrand realized more than one version of his successful design. The illustrated peacock brooch differs only in minute details from the one exhibited in the Exposition. The tail feathers are set with a multitude of diamonds (perhaps as many as 1,000); each accented by one ruby and one emerald. Each feather is jointed onto the body so that the peacock's tail moves slightly. The peacock stands astride a natural pearl with his head proudly held high. In its conception and overall use of gemstones, this brooch is a superb example of the finest jewelry from the late 1860s.
Try LotSearch and its premium features for 7 days - without any costs!
Be notified automatically about new items in upcoming auctions.
Create an alert
.jpg "Source: Christie's")
.jpg "Source: Christie's")
