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Auction archive: Lot number 180

SUITE OF IMPORTANT GEM-SET, DIAMOND AND GOLD JEWELRY

Auction 19.10.1994
19 Oct 1994
Estimate
US$70,000 - US$90,000
Price realised:
US$178,500
Auction archive: Lot number 180

SUITE OF IMPORTANT GEM-SET, DIAMOND AND GOLD JEWELRY

Auction 19.10.1994
19 Oct 1994
Estimate
US$70,000 - US$90,000
Price realised:
US$178,500
Beschreibung:

SUITE OF IMPORTANT GEM-SET, DIAMOND AND GOLD JEWELRY A necklace, the front vertically-set with a cushion-cut tanzanite and a pear-shaped blue-green tourmaline, extending a tapering band composed of circular-cut diamond and gold "X" motifs, alternating with cushion-cut peridot, green tourmaline and tanzanite, oval-cut red, peach and green tourmaline and pink topaz, circular-cut red tourmaline and tanzanite and pear-shaped aquamarine, tanzanite and sherry topaz, mounted in platinum and 18K gold-- 17½ in. long ; and a pair of earrings set with green tourmaline and kunzite en suite Signed by Paloma Picasso Tiffany & Co., 1985 and 1987. Paloma Picasso the daughter of one of the most celebrated artists of the twentieth century, completed her formal trainng in jewelry design at the University of Paris at Nanterre. She then designed costume jewelry for Yves Saint Laurent and, later, gold jewelry for the Greek firm, Zolotas in Athens. On October 14, 1980, Tiffany & Co. introduced her first collection of jewelry combining precious and colored gemstones in unexpected color contrasts in highly polished surfaces. Her jewelry is characterized by its generous scale and strong color, emblematic of contemporary life. So as not to be in competition with her famous father's art which is housed in museums, Paloma Picasso creates jewelry to be worn, maintaining, "My jewelry is designed around the idea of a woman who will wear it." In keeping with her design principle, she created the illustrated necklace which, although large in scale, when worn, fits proportionately in the front and back of the neck. Only an exceptional designer is capable of creating such a massive necklace that is so comfortable to wear. Wearability is further enhanced by subtly hinging the central tanzanite, enabling it to shift as the wearer moves. Strong color, achieved through a combinaion of tourmalines, tanzanite, topaz, peridot, rubelite, aquamarine, and indicolite, provides a bold contrast to her signature diamond "X" design. This necklace has been featured in Tiffany & Co.'s "Blue Book" for 1985-1986, page 16 and 17; John Loring "Tiffany's 150 Years," 1987, pages 159 and 186; and A. Kenneth Snowman, editor, "The Master Jewelers," 1990, page 184. Although declaring her jewelry should be worn, two of her pieces have entered museum collections; an exceptional moonstone bracelet in the Field Museum of Chicago and a rare kunzite necklace in the National Museum of Natural History, Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C. (2)

Auction archive: Lot number 180
Auction:
Datum:
19 Oct 1994
Auction house:
Christie's
New York, Park Avenue
Beschreibung:

SUITE OF IMPORTANT GEM-SET, DIAMOND AND GOLD JEWELRY A necklace, the front vertically-set with a cushion-cut tanzanite and a pear-shaped blue-green tourmaline, extending a tapering band composed of circular-cut diamond and gold "X" motifs, alternating with cushion-cut peridot, green tourmaline and tanzanite, oval-cut red, peach and green tourmaline and pink topaz, circular-cut red tourmaline and tanzanite and pear-shaped aquamarine, tanzanite and sherry topaz, mounted in platinum and 18K gold-- 17½ in. long ; and a pair of earrings set with green tourmaline and kunzite en suite Signed by Paloma Picasso Tiffany & Co., 1985 and 1987. Paloma Picasso the daughter of one of the most celebrated artists of the twentieth century, completed her formal trainng in jewelry design at the University of Paris at Nanterre. She then designed costume jewelry for Yves Saint Laurent and, later, gold jewelry for the Greek firm, Zolotas in Athens. On October 14, 1980, Tiffany & Co. introduced her first collection of jewelry combining precious and colored gemstones in unexpected color contrasts in highly polished surfaces. Her jewelry is characterized by its generous scale and strong color, emblematic of contemporary life. So as not to be in competition with her famous father's art which is housed in museums, Paloma Picasso creates jewelry to be worn, maintaining, "My jewelry is designed around the idea of a woman who will wear it." In keeping with her design principle, she created the illustrated necklace which, although large in scale, when worn, fits proportionately in the front and back of the neck. Only an exceptional designer is capable of creating such a massive necklace that is so comfortable to wear. Wearability is further enhanced by subtly hinging the central tanzanite, enabling it to shift as the wearer moves. Strong color, achieved through a combinaion of tourmalines, tanzanite, topaz, peridot, rubelite, aquamarine, and indicolite, provides a bold contrast to her signature diamond "X" design. This necklace has been featured in Tiffany & Co.'s "Blue Book" for 1985-1986, page 16 and 17; John Loring "Tiffany's 150 Years," 1987, pages 159 and 186; and A. Kenneth Snowman, editor, "The Master Jewelers," 1990, page 184. Although declaring her jewelry should be worn, two of her pieces have entered museum collections; an exceptional moonstone bracelet in the Field Museum of Chicago and a rare kunzite necklace in the National Museum of Natural History, Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C. (2)

Auction archive: Lot number 180
Auction:
Datum:
19 Oct 1994
Auction house:
Christie's
New York, Park Avenue
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