TWO GEM-SET, DIAMOND AND GOLD 'CUPID' BROOCHES One, designed as a sculpted 14K gold cupid with a rose-cut diamond face, circular-cut ruby and emerald headdress and pavé-set diamond wings, aiming a diamond and gold bow and arrow; the other, of smaller similar design, with a circular-cut sapphire and gold headdress and wings, holding a sapphire and gold heart, pierced with a gold arrow Signed by Van Cleef & Arpels, Nos. NY57298, N.Y.11595 In the 1940's, the human figure reemerged as a motif in jewelry design. Images included clowns, flowersellers, cowboys, golfers, ballerinas, and cupids, usually set with tiny colored gems. Perhaps the most popular of these figures was the ballerina. In 1943, John Rubel first introduced a variation on this theme when he advertised a group of dancing flowers derived from Tchaikovsky's Nutcracker Suite in Walt Disney's film Fantasia. Shortly afterward under the design guidance of Maurice Duvalet, Van Cleef & Arpels created their famous ballerinas. The illustrated cupid brooches follow in the tradition of this jewelry. Both are depicted as if caught in mid air and both are set with precious gemstones and rose-cut diamond faces. John Rubel also employed the services of Duvalet so that often the jewelry of the two firms is similar. For an illustration of a similar cupid brooch with rubies in his hair by John Rubel, see Penny Proddow and Debra Healy, American Jewelry Glamour and Tradition, New York, 1987, p.147. (2)
TWO GEM-SET, DIAMOND AND GOLD 'CUPID' BROOCHES One, designed as a sculpted 14K gold cupid with a rose-cut diamond face, circular-cut ruby and emerald headdress and pavé-set diamond wings, aiming a diamond and gold bow and arrow; the other, of smaller similar design, with a circular-cut sapphire and gold headdress and wings, holding a sapphire and gold heart, pierced with a gold arrow Signed by Van Cleef & Arpels, Nos. NY57298, N.Y.11595 In the 1940's, the human figure reemerged as a motif in jewelry design. Images included clowns, flowersellers, cowboys, golfers, ballerinas, and cupids, usually set with tiny colored gems. Perhaps the most popular of these figures was the ballerina. In 1943, John Rubel first introduced a variation on this theme when he advertised a group of dancing flowers derived from Tchaikovsky's Nutcracker Suite in Walt Disney's film Fantasia. Shortly afterward under the design guidance of Maurice Duvalet, Van Cleef & Arpels created their famous ballerinas. The illustrated cupid brooches follow in the tradition of this jewelry. Both are depicted as if caught in mid air and both are set with precious gemstones and rose-cut diamond faces. John Rubel also employed the services of Duvalet so that often the jewelry of the two firms is similar. For an illustration of a similar cupid brooch with rubies in his hair by John Rubel, see Penny Proddow and Debra Healy, American Jewelry Glamour and Tradition, New York, 1987, p.147. (2)
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