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Auction: Jewels and Jadeite
was auctioned on: 29 May 2017
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Estimate: HK$3,600,000 - HK$4,500,000
ca. US$462,290 - US$577,863
Price realised:  HK$4,880,000
ca. US$626,660
Lot number 640, Views: 110

Cartier A Diamond and Emerald Ring, Monture Cartier, Circa 1950 5.31克拉D/IF鑽石 配「哥倫比亞」天然袓母綠戒指, 卡地亞鑲嵌, 約1950年, 袓母綠未經浸油處理
One emerald-cut diamond, 5.31 carats Two pear-shaped emeralds, 4.15 and 4.03 carats Platinum and 18 karat yellow gold Signed Monture Cartier Size 5½ (with ring guard) (5.31-carat Diamond) GIA report, numbered 2185048498, dated 30 January 2017, D colour, Internally Flawless. (Two Emeralds) AGL report, numbered 1082779 A and B, dated 5 April 2017, Colombia, no clarity enhancement. Ever since late 19th century, Cartier has been one of the most renowned European jewellery houses. Her dedication to quality and craftsmanship, plus endless new inspirations, became the hallmarks of Cartier’s jewels and objects. The present ring is a great example of an acclaimed creation of this reputed jeweller in 1950s. Moving away from the angular geometric style of previous decade, the fashion of massive ring continued in the 1950s and inclined towards curved and rounded form. Instead of large metallic surfaces, new design was often entirely pavé-set with tiny gemstones or diamonds. The present ring shows an innovative interpretation of the era. Of iconic retro ring style, it is set with three important stones including an internally flawless D-colour diamond of 5.31 carats and two matching Colombian, no-oil emeralds of over 4 carats each, built high off the finger. Possibly inspired by the Egyptian revival designs, the gallery of this ring resembles the wings of the scarab beetle. Fluted lines of gold which comprise the ring mount further echoes this motif. Throughout the history, many important pieces of jewellery made by Cartier were those designed and mounted specifically for clients by special order. To commission a jewel by Cartier is, after all, to immortalize the desires, tastes and whims of a particular individual within a jewels that forever bears the prestige of the Cartier name. Read More Catalogue Essay 自十九世紀以來,卡地亞一直是其中一個世上最有名的歐洲珠寶商。卡地亞對於品質和工藝的堅持,以及其破格創新的設計已成為品牌的謤誌,此戒指由卡地亞於五十年代精心打造,正好是一個絶佳的例子。 五十年代的戒指體積較大,有別於四十年代的直線及角形設計,較傾向於採用曲線及圓弧的幾何形狀。設計經常會用小寶石及鑽石作密釘式鑲嵌,而不是以一整塊大型金屬面為主。此戒指的設計以無窮創意,詮釋該時代的獨特風格。上面鑲有三顆十分重要的寶石,包括一顆重5.31克拉的全美白鑽,以及兩顆匹配的哥倫比亞袓母綠。既高又厚的戒台,將寶石推到戒指的最頂端,營造往上延伸的感覺,這些都是四五十年代的典型設計。此戒台的設計也有可能受到卡地亞埃及復興風格之影響,側面的線條看上去有金龜甲甲蟲雙翼的影子,戒環上的紐紋亦表現出類似的風格。 歷史上,有許多卡地亞的重要作品都是品牌為其客人作定製的特別珠寶首飾。透過委託卡地亞為自己打造舉世無雙的作品,一個人能將自己的嚮往、品味及奇想化成永恆的珠寶,加上此著名品牌的標記,成為世代流傳的傑作。 Read More Artist Bio Cartier French With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe. Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open. View More Works

Informations about the auction
Auction house: Phillips
Title: Jewels and Jadeite
Date of the auction: 29 May 2017
Address: Phillips
Hong Kong